New Bertus Basson restaurant at Vergenoegd
Award-winning Vergenoegd Löw Wine Estate in Stellenbosch is where
well-known chef Bertus Basson has two restaurants. Geuwels is casual,
family-style and relaxed. Clara’s Barn, named after the wife of the
owner, is the smarter sister, housed in the oldest barn in the country
that has been respectfully and tastefully restored with contemporary,
understated decor.
The menu at Clara’s ‘farm kitchen’ is sophisticated, with three and fivecourse options based on local and seasonal produce. The meats and
roasts on the menu remind the diner that the estate was originally a
cattle farm. Drikus Brink, formerly chef at Overture for seven years,
heads the team.
Edible childhood memoirs are rewritten with dishes like fish paste on
toast in a Lucky Star tin. With it, a Bovril tart and Huguenot cheese with
‘mosbolletjies’, homemade butter, figs and ‘moskonfyt’. The ‘let’s look
back’ button has been pressed and there is no stopping. Provenance
and lineage are evident on each plate. Dishes demand attention – like
the raw yellowtail with pumpkin, coconut cream, chilli, cashew and
coriander. The Hoekkraaltjie quail with liver parfait, sweetcorn and
barley is scrumptious, the barley resting in a delicate, crispy tart case
alongside the quail.
Vergenoegd Löw wines are an obvious companion to the fervently
flavoured dishes. The sides too require an honourable mention –
expect the ‘pampoenkoekies’ to be served in a hollowed out pumpkin.
Desserts have modern twists on the classics, the sago pudding with a
soft meringue topping and Ideal milk ice cream being a prime example.
The dessert trolley is a triumph.
Service is slick yet friendly. The final treat after a three-course odyssey
of mouth-watering memories is being invited to open the dresser
bulging with homemade treats and departing with a Clara’s Barn
bag of goodies, yet another unbridled show of attention to detail and
abundance