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Pier is the latest venture by The La Colombe Group, located on the Pierhead at the V&A Waterfront. Headed by John Norris Rogers serving a multi course tasting menu inspired by the sea.
Gourmet Guide Description
The V&A Waterfront in Cape Town may boast a fleet of restaurants, but
PIER is the first of this calibre. Devoid of decor, this intimate, upperlevel space in the Pierhead building allows the vista to be a single,
arresting artwork, enjoyed from every table and the open kitchen.
Head chef John Norris-Rogers has used his inimitable instinct and
experience to ensure an enthralling menu. Whilst there is a leaning
towards seafood to pay a nod to the location, there is variety and a
focus on local produce. He has retained his practice of planning a
vegetarian menu and adding protein, so vegetarians and vegans will
never be an after-thought.
A tiny salmon cone with horseradish and dill is propped up in an
illuminated piece of porcelain coral, which remains on the table for soft
lighting as the talent show begins. Truffled chicken liver, Springbok
and red onion is served on ceramic funghi. The bespoke receptacles
are as imaginative as the cuisine. Bone marrow butter, subtle in flavour,
is gently carved into the shape of bone marrow. Mussels with Black
Forest ham and soubise is served in a shell.
The crayfish with pork jowl, spiced coconut and tortellini is discreet yet
punchy, with a delicate note of ginger to add zing. Witness the creation
of nitrogen-poached kalamansi, a distinctive delight before leaving the
seabed to enjoy grassfed beef with duck liver, broccoli and a smoked
short rib jus. Finished and sliced tableside, it is pure perfection.
Impressive gueridon service adds to the show. An optional cheese
course, as a supplement, lauds local. A wooden tower is dismantled
to present the wafers and bread, cheeses and accompaniments as
a worthwhile, indulgent course. Dessert of a honey-bee biscuit,
chamomile and stone fruit with brown bread ice cream could bring your
epicurean adventure to shore. The final gesture, ‘sea salt’, is a seashell
that opens to unveil two heavenly bites – the sublime chocolate with
miso creates a fitting final impression. Wine pairings are impeccable, thought-provoking and well commentated. Service is top notch, engaging and informative. From the little doves to the seagulls, all-in-all, a seamless transition.
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